Montreal’s Restaurants – Super Expensive 2

Le Club Chasse et Pêche
(The Hunting and Fishing Club)

This is expensive – a full meal for 2 can cost $250. Opened by Chef Claude Pelletier and partner Hubert Marsolais in December 2004, the crowd is trendy, the service friendly and the interior moody, dark and surreal – with antlers, in case that bothers you. Of course, the hunting and fishing theme, taken from its name, extends to the menu, from the Australian barramundi to the American Kobe beef.

Critics constantly say that the list of ingredients had more variety than the real tastes of the food – that is, more talk, less actual delivery. It may feel like dining in a secret but stylish den, but the food has to deliver. Most times it does, but your palate is the ultimate judge.

The chef flouts daily, but for these prices, there should only be successes. Faint recipes or poor taste combinations should be weeded out and never make it onto the menu.

The noise level can also be unacceptable – the bar seats about 30, the dining room about 50. Located in a stone building in the Old Montreal section of the city, it can feel a little bit of a dungeon. That bothers me.

The food is a minimalist style, highlighting Canadian and organic ingredients. Items rated as worthy:
___ the Negroni cocktail
___ smoked venison and chèvre appetizer and pétoncles (scallops)
___ foie gras liver, pistachios, sweet wine jelly with lavender glaze
___ surf-and-turf pairing Kobe beef medallion and stuffed lobster tail
___ bison with leeks and chanterelles
___ signature mushroom tart
___ piglet risotto
___ Paradiso: warm caramel, puff pastry, milk-chocolate ice cream
___ Apple compote in cooked apple shell, with a crème brulée top

From their site, here’s a Lunch Menu example:

Appetizers and First Courses
smoked venison, taboulé, goat cheese, pine nut (8)
bisque, sunroot (Jerusalem Artichoke), taragon, crème fraîche (10)
tuna tartare, rémoulade, tapenade (12)
seared scallops, fennel purée, lemon confit (13)
duck foie gras, Serrano, macademia, porcini (24)
young lettuces, L8 Harvest (7)

Chasse et Pêche
duck, butternut squash, purslane, jus (18)
bison two ways, leek, tomato confit, cheddar (23)
braised piglet risotto, foie gras shavings (19)
roasted cod, glazed challots, rutabaga (20)

Touted as “Dressy” (but, dress standards are not consistent; patrons were allowed to show up with t-shirts, flip flops and shorts for dinner. The restaurant at this echelon should demand minimal standards).

Must reserve, not for kids, no wheelchair access or outdoor seating, go for dinner.

Le Club Chasse et Pêche
423 Rue St. Claude
phone: 514-861-1112
Métro: Champ-de-Mars

Montreal Archive

©2010 mystic at Travel Vacation Review

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